Southern Coastal Trail

We started walking from the Dhermi promenade, walking all the way to the end and turning left just before its end. Here it was a bit tricky to identify the road, given some recent construction work, and from what I read currently the area may also be temporarily inaccessible: it is advisable to check the status of the trail in advance. Fortunately, we found updated directions on this Outdooractive page.

The first section is on an uphill path through dense and unmaintained vegetation: in some places shrubs almost close the passage. Shortly after, you cross a private property and reach the Monastery of San Teodoro, in a panoramic position, from which there is a beautiful view of the coast and the surrounding hills.

From here, continue along a paved road that descends to a parking lot near Gjipe beach, where there are also a couple of bars/restaurants and a campground. The beach is a great place to take a break, and behind it lies the impressive Gjipe canyon, which is very impressive.

We resumed walking at the end of the beach, from where the trail to Jale resumes (access is somewhat hidden) The trail climbs sharply along the ridge, offering spectacular views of the sea, but is rather isolated and in several places overgrown with vegetation. In one section, we also crossed a rather extensive landslide with very large boulders: passage was possible, the blocks seemed stable, but it requires some attention. Some hikers point out that, should the trail be impassable, there is a longer detour through Vuno, which we personally did not take, however.

Once you get to Jale Bay, you cross the whole beach and then continue on a dirt road (again, work was in progress here at the time of our passage). After a short while, with a very short detour of a few meters, you can go down to the wonderful Aquarium beach: small, wild and perfect for a break, I absolutely recommend it.

Returning to the main path, we proceed to the long Livadh beach: the environment becomes more open and the walk easier, until we arrive, a couple of kilometers after Livadh beach, at Himare, a beautiful seaside town, ideal for ending the stage.

This stage is actually a combination of two and a half stages of the Southern Coastal Trail “Classic”: from Himarë we passed through Pilur and the valleys to Kudhës, then detoured along the road to Qeparo Beach. It was a long and varied trail, with very beautiful scenery, but quite strenuous and at times unrewarding, especially because of the uncultivated vegetation in some areas.

We decided to combine several stages for practical reasons: we had only a few days to spare and could not find sleeping accommodations in either Pilur or Kudhës. In fact, in both of these locations there are very few options, almost all of them off the tourist track and not found online: these are authentic, isolated villages where time seems to have stood still.

We started directly from Himarë, beginning first through the narrow streets of the town and then along the sidewalk of a larger road, and then after a few kilometers we entered dirt roads and paths. We crossed an old riverbed lined with ancient olive trees and terraced fields, passing the charming little rural church of Shën Nikollës, in a secluded and quiet location.

From here we began to climb on paths that were almost reminiscent of mountain or alpine environments, with very open and spectacular landscapes, until we reached the stone village of Pilur. The climb to reach the village is quite challenging and long: loose stones, marked gradient, but it is all rewarded by the incredible views of the entire Riviera!

Pilur is a very small village, but with a beautiful square where there are two simple but cozy cafes, perfect for a break. There is also a partisan monument here, one of many that dot southern Albania and testify to the history of the area.

From Pilur we resumed our walk following a beautiful path, initially open and scenic, but then more uncultivated and dense in places, until we descended into a large valley. There we had a special encounter with a shepherd and his herd of goats under two large trees-a simple but very beautiful moment.

Shortly after, you cross a ridge and enter what was perhaps the most difficult and least enjoyable part of the entire Southern Coastal Trail. The trail is lost in dense vegetation, almost impenetrable in places, and the signage is barely visible. After a short section of dense forest, you continue for about 4 km through brush and shrubs until you finally come out on a paved road (the SH76) just below Kudhës.

At this point, even though we knew that the path would go up to the center of the village and then continue to the upper part of Qeparo and finally Borsh, we decided not to follow the official route: we were tired, the path was not giving us much, and we were longing for the sea. So we followed the paved road for about 5 km to Qeparo Beach, paying attention to the traffic, which was quite fast on this stretch. Several motorists stopped to offer us a ride: hitchhiking works very well here and can be shortened this way if desired.

This stage, especially in its first half but also further on, deviates from the official route of the Southern Coastal Trail while still staying close to it. We started from Qeparo Beach, not Old Qeparo, and our goal was to reach Borsh Beach, not the historic village of Borsh. For these reasons taking the Classic Trail would have been quite complicated.

So we chose a more direct and coastal alternative, which still proved to be very pleasant and surprising, despite a short stretch on the road that requires some attention.

We set off along the entire Qeparo Beach promenade almost to its end. Shortly after Te Stefi Restaurant & Piceri, we turned left, taking a beautiful little road uphill, framed by blooming bougainvillea and really striking old gates.

The climb continues until we rejoin the SH8 highway, which we followed for about 2 km. The section, although on asphalt, offers spectacular views of the sea and runs practically parallel to the official trail, which runs a little higher up. Traffic is moderate, but it is still good to pay attention.

At a certain point take a downhill road on the right, which leads to the crossing of a small stream (easy to cross). Immediately after, turn right again, following signs for the beach and some campsites.

The road continues wide and straight for about 1.5 km, until it comes out directly on the coast. Here we were greeted by an unusual but beautiful scene: some cows lying on the beach, as if they were enjoying the scenery!

At this point we continue on foot along the Borsh waterfront for about 2-2.5 km, skirting a very clear sea, among bathing establishments, bars and small restaurants. The stage ends near Plazhi i Borshit, where we stopped for the night, choosing a simple, super cozy and really quaint guesthouse just a few steps from the beach.

Departing from Plazhi i Borshit, we travel a little more than a kilometer along the coast until we come to theElisabeta Hotel & Restaurant, where we turn left and begin to climb on a small road that gently enters the hills. Here the path opens up among centuries-old olive groves and ancient agricultural terraces, many now partly abandoned and swallowed up by vegetation, but which retain the charm of local history.

The trail is fairly easy and well-marked, set in peaceful surroundings with wonderful views of Borsh Bay and the beaches below. Along the way there are also a number of small beaches accessible by hidden pathways, with inviting crystal-clear waters-we, however, did not go down, postponing swimming until a little further on.

A little further on we pass by the village of Piqeras, nestled among olive trees and overlooking the coast, a place that still retains the authentic flavor of Albanian rural life.

After about 6.6 km from the starting point, the trail descends to Plazhi i Bunecit (or Bunec), a small beach where we stopped for a refreshing swim. Here, at the first establishment we encountered, by ordering food or drinks we were able to use sunbeds and umbrellas free of charge.

After the break we resume walking along the beach for about 1 km, until we meet a path that drops off to the left and starts climbing again. The trail continues through olive groves, terraces and ever-increasing views of the coast, with really beautiful and scenic sections of trail.

Just before arriving in Lukovë one encounters a surprise: a waterfall with a fairly powerful water flow. The passage is quite challenging and requires care, especially with water and slippery ground, so it is not suitable for everyone.

After passing this stretch, we came to a very small church, the church of St. Paraskevi (Shen Premte), dating from the 15th century. Finally, upon reaching Lukovë, we stopped at a cafe to admire the view and found a bus back to Saranda, asking the cafe owner for a hand.